Glossary

A blend of two or more notes that reads as a single recognizable character, like "fresh spicy" or "gourmand," rather than as separate smells. See our accords guide for ten examples.

A class of aroma chemicals with a waxy, soapy, slightly metallic smell. Famous for their use in Chanel No. 5, where they create a sparkling, abstract opening.

A waxy substance historically sourced from sperm whales, now almost universally replaced by the synthetic molecule ambroxan for both ethical and supply reasons.

A descriptor for notes with a raw, skin-like, sometimes musky or fecal undertone. Used in small amounts, animalic notes add warmth and realism to a composition.

Any individual molecule, natural or synthetic, used as a building block in a fragrance. A finished perfume can contain anywhere from a dozen to several hundred aroma chemicals.

A traditional, oil-based perfume, typically alcohol-free, common in Middle Eastern and South Asian perfumery. Often built around a single dominant raw material rather than a complex blend.

The longest-lasting layer of a fragrance, made up of heavy, low-volatility molecules. See the fragrance pyramid for the full breakdown.

A printed code on a fragrance box or bottle that identifies its production run. Useful for checking approximate manufacture date and, in some cases, verifying authenticity.

A one-of-a-kind fragrance commissioned and formulated for a single individual, as opposed to a commercially released product.

The moment a fragrance's notes open up and become more noticeable on skin, often used to describe how a scent develops in the minutes after application.

A fragrance family built on a base of bergamot, labdanum, and oakmoss, named after Coty's 1917 release Chypre. Known for a mossy, dry, slightly bitter character.

A fragrance formulated to closely resemble a more expensive original. Quality varies widely between clone houses, see our batch variations guide for how formulas can shift over time.

The percentage of perfume oil dissolved in the alcohol base, which determines strength and wear time. Ranges from Eau de Cologne (2 to 5 percent) up to Parfum or Extrait (20 to 30 percent).

An unauthorized, fraudulent copy of a fragrance, sold as if it were the genuine product. Distinct from a clone or dupe, which is openly marketed as inspired by the original.

A small, hand-poured portion of an authentic fragrance, typically 1ml to 10ml, split from a full bottle by an independent seller.

A fragrance no longer in active production by its brand. Discontinued releases often become collector items and can carry significant secondary-market price premiums.

The final stage of a fragrance's development, once the top and heart notes have faded and the base notes are what remain on skin, typically several hours after application.

The lightest common concentration, around 2 to 5 percent perfume oil, with wear time of roughly two hours. Common in classic citrus-forward formulas.

A mid-to-high concentration, typically 15 to 20 percent perfume oil, with wear time of six to ten hours. The most common concentration for modern releases.

A lighter concentration than EDP, typically 5 to 15 percent perfume oil, with wear time of four to six hours.

The strongest common commercial concentration, 20 to 30 percent perfume oil or sometimes higher, with wear time of eight or more hours. Also called pure parfum.

An ingredient added to a fragrance to slow the evaporation of more volatile notes, extending overall wear time.

A new release that shares a name and bottle design with an existing successful fragrance but has a modified formula, such as Sauvage Elixir as a flanker of the original Sauvage.

The complete, precise list and ratio of ingredients that make up a fragrance. Closely guarded by brands and rarely published in full.

A fragrance family built on a base of lavender, coumarin, and oakmoss or moss accord, originally defined by Houbigant's 1882 Fougère Royale. The backbone of most classic men's fragrances.

A fragrance built by mixing or layering multiple existing perfumes, usually as a personal experiment rather than a commercial release.

A fragrance family built around edible, dessert-like notes.

The middle layer of a fragrance, emerging roughly 30 minutes to 3 hours after application as the top notes fade.

The International Fragrance Association, the body that sets safety guidelines and restricts or bans specific aroma chemicals industry-wide. A major driver of fragrance reformulation over time.

A fragrance house operating independently of major beauty conglomerates, typically small-batch and often hand-blended.

Perfumery slang for the actual liquid fragrance itself, as distinct from the bottle, packaging, or marketing.

How many hours a fragrance remains detectable on skin after application. Influenced by concentration, individual skin chemistry, and the molecular weight of the notes used.

The resting period after a fragrance is blended, during which oxidation, esterification, and vapor pressure equilibration smooth out the scent.

A fragrance released within the last few decades that has achieved widespread, lasting popularity comparable to older heritage releases.

A soft, clean, skin-close note. Modern musk is built almost entirely on synthetic molecules, since natural deer musk extraction has been banned for decades.

A fragrance house positioned outside mainstream designer distribution, typically with smaller production runs, higher prices, and more experimental formulas.

A fragrance family built around warm, resinous notes. Increasingly referred to simply as "amber" in modern classification systems.

A chemical reaction between fragrance molecules and trace oxygen that softens sharp edges in a blend over time, a key part of the maceration process.

See Extrait de Parfum. Sometimes used interchangeably, though some brands use "Parfum" to denote a slightly lower concentration than a labeled Extrait.

How far a fragrance extends outward from your skin into the surrounding air, sometimes called throw. A related but distinct concept from sillage.

A change to a fragrance's original formula, usually driven by IFRA restrictions, raw material costs, or sourcing availability.

French for "wake," as in the trail left behind a boat. Describes the scent trail a fragrance leaves as you move, and how noticeable it is to people around you.

The combination of an individual's skin pH, oil production, and temperature that affects how a fragrance smells and performs on their body specifically, which is why the same scent can read differently on two people.

A fragrance, or a way of applying one, that stays extremely close to the skin with minimal sillage, sometimes detectable only by the wearer or someone in close contact.

A fragrance bottle, sometimes without retail packaging, intended for in-store sampling rather than final sale. Often sold at a discount through legitimate channels.

The opening layer of a fragrance, made up of small, highly volatile molecules that evaporate within the first 5 to 15 minutes.

A chemical reaction during maceration where alcohol and acid groups in a fragrance blend slowly exchange and recombine, forming new ester compounds that round out the scent.

A measure of how readily a molecule evaporates into the air. The single biggest factor in determining whether a note behaves as a top, heart, or base note.

An older production of a fragrance, typically predating a known reformulation, often sought after for a formula no longer available in current releases.

How quickly a substance evaporates, governed primarily by molecular weight and vapor pressure. The property that creates the entire concept of the fragrance pyramid.